The gourmet grocers of Rue Saint-Antoine ★★

Some of the gourmet food shops along rue Saint-Antoine (Photo collage by Reid Bramblett)
Some of the gourmet food shops along rue Saint-Antoine

Two blocks of cheesemongers, pâtes purveyors, patisserie, gourmet grocers, and even a Monoprix for the basics

The southern side of rue Saint-Antoine—the roughly two block stretching from the church of St-Paul east to rue de l'Hôtel Saint-Paul—is lined with a string of gourmet pâté purveyors, cheese shops, pastry and bread bakers, and other small grocers to put together a picnic fit for le roi and take it to nearby place Sainte-Catherine to enjoy on a park bench.

I would start at the church end, since that way you can hit the grocery store last and pick up anything you couldn't find at the speciality purveyors.

No guarantees all of these shops will always be around, but starting from the east, near the church: 

  • Verger Saint Paul (97 Rue St Antoine, tel. (0)1 42 72 21 11) - A small grocer with a good fruit and veg selection.
  • Fromages Laurent Dubois (97-99 rue Saint Antoine, tel (0)1 48 87 17 10) - A fabulous cheese shop.
  • Comtesse du Barry (93 Rue Saint-Antoine, tel. (0)1 40 29 07 14) - Purveyor of the finest pâtés in Paris (pick up a few tins to bring home, too).
  • Paul (89–91 rue Saint Antoine, tel. (0)1 44 59 84 39) - Bakery with great sandwiches, too.
  • Miss Manon Boulangerie Pâtisserie (87 rue St-Antoine, tel. (0)1 48 87 87 59) - A bakery and pastry shop.
  • Fromagerie Beillevaire (77 rue Saint Antoine, tel. (0)1 42 78 48 78) - Great cheeses.
  • Benoit Chocolats (75 rue St-Antoine, tel. (0)1 49 96 52 02) - Gourmet chocolates.
  • Famille Mary (75 rue St Antoine, tel. (0)1 40 29 90 60) - Delicious honey. Maybe you don't need it for your picnic, but stop in for a sample at least. 
  • Monoprix (71 rue St-Antoine, tel. (0)800 08 4000) - French chain store with a grocery department, for wine and wayer and whatever you couldn't get at the specialty shops (or just, you know, to get them all cheaper).
Culinary Tours


About the restaurant star ratings (☆☆☆ to ★★★)

You will notice that all restaurants (and sights and hotels) on this site have a star designation from ☆☆☆ to ★★★.

This merely indicates that I feel these eateries offer a little something that makes them special (or extra-special, or extra-extra special, etc.).

These star ratings are entirely based on personal opinion, and have nothing to do with any official local restaurant ratings or grades.

In general, a pricier restaurant has to impress me that it is worth the added expense.

This is why I give ★★★ to some inexpensive eateries or pubs that happen provide amazing value for the money—and similarly have ranked a few fancy but notable restaurants just ★★☆.

About the restaurant price brackets (€–€€€)

Here at we simply provide a general price range indicating the general amount you should expect to pay for a full meal in the eatery.

Each eatery is rated into a price category, which indicates—very roughly—what you could expect to pay, per person, for a standard full meal: Two courses (appetizer and main course, main and side, main and dessert, whatever), plus something to drink.

There are three price ranges, giving you a sense of which restaurants are budget, which are moderate, and which are splurges:

under €15
€€ under €40
€€€ over €40
Useful French phrases

Useful French for dining

English (anglais) French (français) Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun
Where is? Où est?     ou eh
...a restaurant un restaurant uhn ray-stah-RAHN
...a casual restaurant un bistro
une brasserie
uhn bee-STRO
ooun bra-sair-RHEE
a table for two un table pour deux uhn TAH-bluh peur dou
I would like Je voudrais... zhuh vou-DRAY
...some (of) un peu (de) uhn puh (duh)
...this ce suh
...that ça sah
and et ay
chicken poulet poo-LAY
beef bouef buff
veal veau voh
fish poisson pwa-SOH
pork porc pork
meat la viande lah vee-YOHN-duh
platter of cured meats la charcuterie lah shar-coo-tair-EE
I am vegetarian je suis végétarien zhuh swee veh-je-ta-ree-YEN
rare bleu
medium rare à point ah PWAHn
well done bien cuit bee-YEN kwee
dessert dessert day-SAIR
and et ay
...a glass of un verre de uhn vair duh
...a bottle of une bouteille de oun boo-TAY-yuh de
...a half-liter of un demi de uhn de-MEE de
...fizzy water eau gazeuse oh gah-ZUHZ
...still water eau non gazeuse oh no gah-ZUHZ wine vin rouge vah roozhuh
...white wine vin blanc vah blahn bière bee-YAIR
...cider cidre SEE-drah
Check, please La conte, s'il vous plaît
L’addition, s'il vous plaît
lah KOHNT seel-vou-PLAY
la-dih-see-YON seel-vou-PLAY
Service (tip) is included service compris sair-VEES cohm-PREE

Basic phrases in French

English (anglais) French (français) pro-nun-see-YAY-shun
thank you merci mair-SEE
please s'il vous plaît seel-vou-PLAY
yes oui wee
no non no
Do you speak English? Parlez-vous anglais? par-lay-VOU on-GLAY
I don't understand Je ne comprende pas zhuh nuh COHM-prohnd pah
I'm sorry Je suis desolée zhuh swee day-zoh-LAY
How much does it cost? Combien coute? coam-bee-YEHN koot
That's too much C'est trop say troh
Good day Bonjour bohn-SZOURH
Good evening Bon soir bohn SWAH
Good night Bon nuit  bohn NWEE
Goodbye Au revoir oh-ruh-VWAH
Excuse me (to get attention) Excusez-moi eh-skooze-ay-MWA
Excuse me (to get past someone) Pardon pah-rRDOHN
Where is? Où est? ou eh
...the bathroom la toilette lah twah-LET
...train station la gare lah gahr

Days, months, and other calendar items in French

English (anglais) French (français) Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun
When is it open? Quand est-il ouvert? coan eh-TEEL oo-VAIR
When does it close? Quand est l'heure de fermeture?   coan eh lure duh fair-mah-TOUR
At what time... à quelle heure... ah kell uhre
Yesterday hier ee-AIR
Today aujoud'hui ow-zhuhr-DWEE
Tomorrow demain duh-MEHN
Day after tomorrow après demain ah-PRAY duh-MEHN
a day un jour ooun zhuhr
Monday Lundí luhn-DEE
Tuesday Maredí mar-DEE
Wednesday Mercredi mair-cray-DEE
Thursday Jeudi zhuh-DEE
Friday Vendredi vawn-druh-DEE
Saturday Samedi saam-DEE
Sunday Dimanche DEE-maansh
a month un mois ooun mwa
January janvier zhan-vee-YAIR
February février feh-vree-YAIR
March mars mahr
April avril ah-VREEL
May mai may
June juin zhuh-WAH
July juillet zhuh-LYAY
August août ah-WOOT
September septembre sep-TUHM-bruh
October octobre ok-TOE-bruh
November novembre noh-VAUM-bruh
December décembre day-SAHM-bruh

Numbers in French

English (anglais) French (français) Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun
1 un ehn
2 deux douh
3 trois twa
4 quatre KAH-truh
5 cinq sank
6 six sees
7 sept sehp
8 huit hwhee
9 neuf nuhf
10 dix dees
11 onze ownz
12 douze dooz
13 treize trehz
14 quatorze kah-TOHRZ
15 quinze cans
16 seize sez
17 dix-sept dee-SEP
18 dix-huit dee-SWEE
19 dix-neuf dee-SNEUHF
20 vingt vahn
21* vingt et un * vahnt eh UHN
22* vingt deux * vahn douh
23* vingt trois * vahn twa
30 trente truhnt
40 quarante kah-RAHNT
50 cinquante sahn-KAHNT
60 soixante swaa-SAHNT
70 soixante-dix swa-sahnt-DEES
80 quatre-vents  kat-tra-VAHN
90 quatre-vents-dix  kat-tra-vanht-DEES
100 cent sant
1,000 mille meel
5,000 cinq mille sank meel
10,000 dix mille dees meel

* You can form any number between 20 and 99 just like the examples for 21, 22, and 23. For x2–x9, just say the tens-place number (trente for 30, quarante for 40, etc.), then the ones-place number (35 is trente cinq; 66 is soixsante six). The only excpetion is for 21, 31, 41, etc. For x1, say the tens-place number followed by " un" (trente et un, quarante et un, etc.).

‡ Yes, the French count very strangely once they get past 69. Rather than some version of "seventy,' they instead say "sixy-ten" (followed by "sixty-eleven," "sixty-twelve,' etc. up to "sixty-nineteen.") And then, just to keep things interesting, they chenge it up again and, for 80, say 'four twenties"—which always make me thinks of blackbirds baked in a pie for some reason. Ninety becomes "four-twenties-ten" and so on up to "four-nineties-ninteen" for 99, which is quite a mouthful: quartre-vingts-dix-neuf.